2017 Pacific Coast Trip - Bismarck, ND & Moorhead, MN

Photo link:

https://goo.gl/photos/RYXGGyvLYGk7uHhQ9

Thursday, August 10^th – Sunday, August 13^th

Ft. Abraham Lincoln State Park, Bismarck, North Dakota

We left Roosevelt N.P. and headed east in a straight line on I-94 to Bismarck, the capital city of North Dakota. Ft. Abraham Lincoln State Park was our destination. This park is located along the Missouri River, where the Heart River converges. The first known inhabitants of this place were the Mandan Indians that had built a village of earth lodges on the river bank slope, inhabited from years 1575 to 1781. They were skilled farmers, hunters and traders with other Indians in the territory. Lewis & Clark stopped here in 1804 and found the long abandoned Indian village, which they noted in their journals.  Many years later in 1872, after the Northern Pacific Railroad was built through this land, Fort McKeen was established on the bluffs. A year later, the land became Ft. Abraham Lincoln and was the base of Colonel George Custer and his 7^th Cavalry. This was where they rode out to the ill-fated campaign against the Plains Indians, at the Battle of Little Bighorn. We all know this was his last stand; they were defeated, he and most of the men died in this battle. In 1907, the land was donated to the state by President Theodore Roosevelt and became a State Park. Due to the military Fort being abandoned for decades, the State restored or rebuilt many of the buildings for historical purposes. The surrounding area is mostly agricultural lands on the rolling hills.

The campground was one of the nicest we have ever been in. The grounds along the river were heavily treed with green grass everywhere. The hills throughout the park had several miles of single track mountain biking trails. We did enjoy riding the trails, they were a lot of fun and not too technical. The views from the trails of the Missouri River valley were great. It was interesting to tour the historical buildings and learn more history of the area. Such a beautiful park, we truly enjoyed our time spent there. It was much more than we expected in N. Dakota.

Monday, August 14^th – Wednesday, August 16^th

Buffalo River State Park, Moorhead, Minnesota

On our way east, we had planned to stay in the Fargo, N.D. area. However, I found a great State Park just inside the Minnesota border. The weather forecast called for rain a couple of days, so we decided it would be good time to relax a little and also get some chores done on the camper. The park was very nice; large shady camp sites with a prairie view out the back window. It was in a remote area and was very quiet. We were able to hike some trails around the park, when it wasn’t raining. The small Buffalo River wound its way through the park. There was also a very nice “swimming hole” pool area. This was man-made and spring fed, very clean water and lifeguards. It looked like a lot of locals brought their children here for day use. It looked like a lot of fun, but was too cold for us.

This was a decompression stop for us, so there was not a lot of activities outdoors, thanks to the rain. After this respite, we were ready to head into northern Minnesota. We were then ready to move forward and head into North Minnesota.

2017 Pacific Coast Trip - Theodore Roosevelt National Park, Medora, North Dakota

Photo link:

 

https://goo.gl/photos/e8TVXB2HNbeHmaux7

Friday, August 4^th – Wednesday, August 9^th

 

Cottonwood Campground in TRNP, Medora, North Dakota

 

We drove east on I-94, crossed over the North Dakota state line and arrived at the town of Medora. Theodore Roosevelt National Park (TRNP) entrance was right in town. We were not able to get a campsite in the National Park, so we headed to Sully Creek State Park, just a few miles south of town. We were able to stay there one night, so the next morning we could get in line at Cottonwood Campground in TRNP. A great site opened up just as we entered the campground, so we grabbed the site and setup our RV. The sites were very spacious and we were very lucky to get the site. We soon found out that almost all campsites in the area were taken due to an endurance mountain bike race on the next day, Saturday. The race followed the Maah Daah Hey trail, which is a single track trail, dating over 200 years. The Native Americans used this trail for a trade route between other tribes.

We drove back into Medora the next morning and explored the area. What a nice small, western town, host to the National Park. “Medora was founded in 1883 along the transcontinental rail line of the Northern Pacific Railway by French nobleman Marquis de Mores, who named the city after his wife Medora von Hoffman. Marquis de Mores wanted to ship refrigerated meat to Chicago via the railroad. He built a meat packing plant for this purpose and a house named the Chateau de Mores, which is now a museum.” The rest of the story surrounds Theodore Roosevelt, who was instrumental in the development of the National Park. In his mid-20’s, he traveled to the N. Dakota Badlands and Dakota Territory to relax and hunt buffalo. He fell in love with the area and built a cabin. He later became a cattle rancher. Years later he returned to New York and began his political career. After years in the East, he became a conservationist. This and his wealth allowed him to donate the land that would become the National Park.

The landscape of the Park is so different. The Badlands are a result of water and wind that moved and reshaped the rock formations. The layers of so many ancient times display the history of this land. It’s quite amazing to imagine that this land began 65 million years ago, and now has become incredible rock formations mostly consisting of sandstone, mudstone and bentonite clay. There are portions of the Park where petrified wood remain from the Badlands swampy history. The Painted Canyon, at another south entrance, displays the layers all across the valley, quite stunning.

Kurt researched the Maah Daay Hey Trail for mountain biking. He would have loved to compete in the 100 mile endurance race; probably in one of several shorter miles races. We did get our bikes on the trail at the connection trail from Medora. After finding the correct path, we headed off on the amazing desert trail. Kurt rode out and back around 26 miles. I rode about 5 miles, enough for a good workout. He decided on our last day that he would ride 25 miles from a trailhead further north on the trail, where I could drop him off. We later met in Medora at the Picnic Park, where his ride ended. The boys and I hung out at the park and they got to run off leash and have some fun until Kurt arrived.

On one night, we went on ranger-led moon rise hike. We hiked at Wind Canyon as the young ranger told mythical stories about moon. He was so young, he didn’t really understand the moon missions, as he mentioned they were shuttled up to the moon, he kept mentioning the shuttle. Otherwise, he told some interesting stories and is a nice young man. We watched the sunset to the east and then the moon rise over the mountains to the west. It was a very beautiful evening. Truly enjoyed a new perspective on hiking.

The Park had many hiking trails, but we mostly hiked the short loops or trails at turnouts and overlooks. We hiked a couple of longer ones, so we were able to experience almost all landscapes in the Park. The Little Missouri River flows through the park, but at this time there is very little water in the river due to the terrible drought that this region has been in. This is a very different Park than most we have visited. We did see a lot of wildlife; wild horse herds, bison herds, pronghorn and many prairie dog towns. Our last morning in the campground, we woke up to fog and a herd of bison roaming through the campground. We were amazed at the close proximity that they came near us; we backed away as they rushed between our RV and one in behind us. WOW, it was so exciting, the alpha bull suddenly bolted and took the whole herd with him off into the fog. What a sendoff for our time spent there.

We enjoyed our time here; again, we had no idea what to expect and stayed a few more days than we had planned. Next, heading to Bismarck, N. Dakota.

2017 Pacific Coast Trip - Billings, Montana

Photo link:

https://goo.gl/photos/aEKFvTtyQ4MAKdZf7

Friday, July 28^th – Thursday, August 3^rd  

Billings KOA, Billings, Montana

Leaving Helena, we headed east on scenic mountain roads, so much nicer than taking the boring interstates. We drove around and through the Helena National Forest and the Lewis and Clark National Forest, such beautiful scenery. We didn't know what to expect in Billings so we had only booked 4 days at the Billings KOA Park. It looked like a very nice park and it was right on the Yellowstone River, so we hoped to do some kayaking. Approaching the Billings area we we're driving over a high desert plateau, when we were able to see the Billings Valley. It’s a very large city, quite green and beautiful due to the rivers and creeks. Billings is the largest city in the state of Montana and it was quite obvious that it is a heavily agricultural, oil and gas, industrial town. One of the most significant features in Billings is the sandstone bluffs surround the city known as the Rimrocks. The “Rims” range in height from 200 to 500 feet. It is such different geology than we have seen anywhere in the northwestern states.

We had discovered that there were a couple of major mountain bike trail systems in the Billings area. The next day we headed out to Phipps Park, after visiting a local bicycle shop for some repair parts and trail advice. These trails were on the top of one of those Rimrock plateaus. They were actually a lot of fun once we got up there, but there was at least a mile long, steep climb up a single-track to the top, it was brutal. The views from the top of the Rimrock were spectacular, looking back into the Billings Valley and on the other side to the agricultural and suburban communities. A few of the trails were not rideable due to rock fall and lack of maintenance, so we just stayed on the very top rim trail. 

We were able to arrange a taxi shuttle so we could get our kayaks out on the Yellowstone River. We put in upstream at a public boat ramp and paddled back to the campground. The river was moving very swift and we actually did 20 miles and just about 3 hours. Along the way we were truly surprised to see six bald eagles; one pair in trees, two juveniles in trees and then near the end of the paddle we saw two adult bald eagles just sitting on the shoreline of the river. It was amazing to see that many eagles in one day. We had a really fun time, the weather was perfect and it was a great day. 

There was a scenic drive that headed south of Billings and down into Wyoming called the Beartooth Scenic Byway. We took the dogs and planned to spend most of the day driving the amazing road. As we began heading south on the byway the elevation started changing rapidly. We went through the town of Red Lodge at elevation of 5500’, then after 7 miles of switchbacks up into the mountains, we were able to see the peaks and glaciers of the Beartooth Mountains. At one point we rose up into the tundra area which was quite flat and beautiful. There were several vista points and rest areas which made it even more wonderful for the views. At one point we passed over the 45th parallel which is also the Montana-Wyoming border. At this point we drove out of the Custer National Forest and into the Shoshone National Forest. We drove to the highest elevation which was the West Summit Overlook at 10,947’ above sea level, with amazing 360-degree views of the Beartooth Plateau and other mountain peaks. At that point and after 40 miles, we turned around and headed back to Billings. It was a wonderful day although it was a little bit overcast in some places. We were very glad we had taken the time to experience this Scenic Byway and see the amazing mountain range and the valleys. 

The next day we headed out to a different mountain biking trail called the Zimmerman Trail. This trail was on the south side plateau of the Billings Valley and was actually much better than the previous trails we had ridden. We enjoyed them so much we went there two days. We truly enjoyed the mountain bike trails there, along with all the other activities. 

Billings turned out to be an unexpected pleasure, we ended up staying a full week there and we were busy every day. Also the Billings KOA is an outstanding park, one of the nicest we have ever stayed at in the whole country. It also is the first KOA ever created. We don’t usually stay at KOA’s, due to the high prices, but this one was worth it.

This visit to Billings Montana really sealed the deal on how much we love this state. Everyone there was so nice and friendly, just good people! Again, we were sad to leave such a favorite place, but we were ready to head into North Dakota for adventures there.

2017 Pacific Coast Trip - Helena, Montana

Photo link:

https://goo.gl/photos/Bf69BXeRLuB9H2mb6

Friday, July 21^st – Thursday, July 27^th
Lincoln Road RV Park, Helena, Montana

On our drive out of Glacier National Park we drove back mountain roads so that we could see the beautiful scenery. We passed by several lakes, among them Seeley Lake, which was beautiful. We could see the Mission Mountains in the background. We also passed through Lincoln Montana where there were fires in the mountains of that area. Lincoln is also the location of the 5.8 earthquake that struck on July 6th. 

We finally arrived in Helena Montana and checked in at the Lincoln Road RV Park, which is north of the city. The next morning we headed into the city to the visitor center. This was located in a very historic area of Helena called Reeders Alley. This was the location where the original gold miners discovered gold in the gulch in Helena at the base of the mountain. These four miners had had found no gold throughout the Northwest, but on their way heading back East they said they would take one “ last chance”. They stopped at a creek at the base of Helena Mountain and found their gold. This was the beginning of the gold rush for this city and the founding of the city of Helena. Many other gold miners headed to Helena for their fortunes. At one time there were over 100 millionaires in the growing city, thus the city has a whole neighborhood of historic mansions. Remaining up in the gulch, which is now named “Last Chance Gulch”, are the remnants of the miners original stone cabins, which they abandoned once they made their millions. This city is filled with so much history and eventually became the state capital. 

We also found major mountain biking trails on Mount Helena which we enjoyed on three different days. The trails were well designed and a lot of fun, and provided fantastic views down into the Helena Valley.

Just seven miles north of the city the Missouri River flows through the mountains. When Lewis and Clark came this way along the Missouri, they named this the "Gates of the Mountains" as the canyon walls were very high and as they approached the canyon it looked like the rock walls were gates opening to the river. There was a beautiful lake there with a very nice marina and a lot of boating activities. 

One day we decided to take the tourist trolley around Helena to see all the sights and learn a little bit more about the history of this city. It was very enjoyable to see the mansions and all the major buildings, and listen to the guide tell us more about how the city developed over the decades. After the trolley tour Kurt and I went into the State Capitol building and walked around on a self-tour. It is actually quite a beautiful building inside and out, again there was more historic information in the capitol. 

Kurt took the dogs on a hiking excursion one afternoon along the Missouri River, the poor boys had been stuck in the camper and didn’t have any place to really run. They all three had fun on the hike.

We got lucky again, the Last Chance Stampede Rodeo and Fair was that weekend. We were able to attend the rodeo on the first night of events. It was so exciting to see great PRCA cowboys, the patriotism and excitement of a true Western rodeo. 

We really enjoyed the city of Helena and hope that we can come back here someday. We have so much fallen in love with Montana. We will consider coming back here to spend some of our summers, maybe rotating summers with the mountains in North Carolina and Virginia.

Looking forward to our next stop in Billings Montana. We hear that it is a big city, with some great mountain biking. We will see!

2017 Pacific Coast Trip - Glacier National Park, Montana

Photo link:

https://goo.gl/photos/tVpBJRtCLLeFMhHU6

Friday, July 14^th – Thursday, July 20^th

Crooked Tree RV Park, Hungry Horse, Montana

As we headed north towards Glacier N.P. we again took some back roads that we had not traveled. The drive along Highway 3 passed by the St. Joe National Forest and also along the Coeur d’Alene River, before reaching Interstate 90. This was such a long drive that we needed to do a one night stopover at our favorite flop, Walmart. We found one in the small town of Smelterville Idaho along the interstate. The next day we crossed into Montana, then headed north to Glacier. Along the way we passed by Flathead Lake, WOW this is a huge, beautiful lake in an amazing valley that we didn’t expect to see. Ultimately, we made it to Hungry Horse and got settled in the campground. This RV park is only 3 miles from the west entrance to Glacier N.P.

That afternoon we drove into the Park to the Visitor Center to get maps and speak with a Ranger about hikes. This is a vast park with numerous hikes and scenic drives. We were strongly advised regarding grizzly bear activity, as huckleberries were in season and the bears were out with their cubs to feed. We then drove the park highway for a few miles to get our first glimpse of the lakes and mountains, they were spectacular!

The next day, we hiked the Avalanche Trail, which was a rugged climb along Avalanche Creek, up to an alpine lake. The views were amazing of mountain peaks and several waterfalls from the melting snowfields.

Another day we drove the 50 mile Going-to-the-Sun road to the far end at St. Mary, east entrance. This mountain road was built in the 1930’s by the Civilian Conservation Corps (CCC). This 50 mile, spectacular highway bisects the Park and hugs the cliffs below the Continental Divide. Most of the road is narrow as it climbs the mountainside and also has rock guard rails in many places where needed. On the return trip we stopped at Logan Pass Visitor Center to hike the Hidden Lake Overlook Trail. There was no parking available at the center, so we had to park about a mile down the road at an overlook and hike back to the trailhead at the Center. This trail is only 1.4 miles with a 500 foot gain, not a tough hiking trail. After about ¼ mile, we found snow covering the trail. I had not brought my hiking poles as it seemed to be an easy trail. I never made it to the overlook as the snow was melting and very slippery. I along with others, were falling on the slippery snow. After about a mile, I headed back to the trailhead to wait for Kurt. This is another aggravating issue with the National Parks trail descriptions. They should have advised hikers of snow on the trail, which would help those who have limited hiking skills to not go on the trail or be prepared. I am a very experienced hiker and had to turn back. If the trail conditions had been divulged, I would have taken my hiking poles and been able to make it all the way… uuggghh. At least I had the pictures that Kurt had taken to see what I missed. Too bad!

There are mountain biking trails in a nearby town of Whitefish. We rode the trails there and really enjoyed the well designed and maintained single tracks. We took turns riding, as we had taken the dogs with us. Kody was not feeling well and we didn’t want to leave them alone in the RV. Also, we had to carry bear spray with us as there had been some reported bear activity in the area (we only had one bear spray can). We never saw any indication of bears…

The Flathead River flowed right through the area and Kurt wanted to kayak the river. He found put in and take out boat ramps, so I dropped him off and picked him up. The river was flowing fast and he really enjoyed the great paddle on such a crystal clear river.

The last day in the area, Kurt went back into Glacier and rode the hiker’s shuttle back to Logan Pass. He then hiked the 14 mile Highline Trail carved into the mountain side. There is a spur trail that goes up to Granite Peak Chalet, a historic lodge for hikers. At the end of the trail, he was able to take the shuttle back to the Visitor Center where the truck was parked. The views along the trail are stunning and the pictures were great. Kurt loves to do these long trails, I really don’t enjoy them so much. Kurt carried his bear spray, but never saw a bear. During our time in Glacier; we, nor anyone else we asked, had seen one bear. Kurt had used his binoculars to scan so many valleys and lakes, never saw any bears. We felt that the rangers have really overblown the bear threat. We understand that bears could be anywhere and one must be prepared, but some trails were closed because of this “threat”.

Overall, we truly enjoyed Glacier National Park and its amazing topography, carved by glaciers. This landscape is so different from any other N.P. that we have visited. The traffic is so well managed there, the only exception is parking at Logan Pass is limited. It is truly one of God’s creations and we humans can marvel at the stunning beauty. This is definitely one of our top favorite National Parks, the “Crown of the Continent”.

2017 Pacific Coast Trip - Hells Canyon, Idaho

Photo link:

https://photos.app.goo.gl/KknA6T6z5GsavEh82

Saturday, July 8^th  – Wednesday, July 12^th
Hells Gate State Park, Lewiston, Idaho

Upon leaving Coeur d'Alene Idaho we headed south to Lewiston Idaho. Located here is Hells Canyon, through which the Snake River flows. Again, the drive was through beautiful agricultural valleys right along the Washington - Idaho border. As we approached the town of Lewiston we realized we were on the top of a butte and there were amazing views down into the Lewiston Valley.  This is where the Clearwater River converges with the Snake River. There's a lot of history in Lewiston as at one point this was an actual shipping port to transport goods to and from the Pacific area. We drove down the steep hill into Lewiston and headed a little further south to Hell's Gate State Park, which is right along the Snake River. We were pleasantly surprised to see such a beautiful state park that had many shade trees and huge spacious RV sites. The park has a nice beach area along the river, along with many hiking and biking trails. There is so much history in this area as this was an actual location where Lewis and Clark came up the Clearwater River and camped along the Snake River. The state park has a huge Lewis and Clark Discovery Center with the full story, history and video re-enactment of the expedition to find the Corps of Discovery Expedition.

We were excited to see the Snake River (we had seen it a few years ago in the Yellowstone area). The next day we drove south along the river on the Washington side to explore and determine what our kayaking possibilities were. There were many rocky cliffs and interesting formations along the canyon walls. One of the principal rock formations is called Basalt, which are volcanic black rock formations in six-sided columns.

We obtained a trail map and we both rode our mountain bikes on the Hell's Gate trails around the park. There were great views of the river, the canyon and the Washington side to the west. The dogs also enjoyed playing on the riverfront beach and meeting some other doggy friends.

We did get our kayaks on the Snake River, we put-in upstream about 12 miles and floated south to the campground. Kurt was able to get a taxi driver to drive him back up to the put in and get the truck. It was a beautiful day on the river and it was amazing to see all the different rock formations along the canyon.

There is an outfitter called Snake River Adventures that does jet boat tours all the way up the river about 20 miles until they reach the dam. Kurt ended up taking the jet boat tour while I stayed at camp with the dogs, since it was a 12 hour day trip. He enjoyed the tour all the way back to where the canyon walls were more narrow and higher. Along the way they spotted some wildlife; there were several areas where bighorn sheep herds were grazing along the river and they even saw a bald eagle on the canyon rocks. There were also several locations where the basalt formations were part of the canyon walls.

We really enjoyed our time at Hells Canyon; the outdoor adventures and more history of the Lewis & Clark Discovery Expedition. Onward to our next adventures in Montana!

2017 Pacific Coast Trip - Lake Coeur d'Alene, Idaho

Photo link:

https://goo.gl/photos/Y8GP6uGLQTC99HtQ9

Monday, July 3^rd – Friday, July 7^th  

Blackwell Island RV Park, Coeur d’Alene, Idaho

We were excited to move on to Idaho, so many RV’ers had commented on what a beautiful place that Coeur d’Alene is. As we approached the area, we began to see the landscape turn into mountains and forest. That made us happy since we would be out of the desert. We arrived at Blackwell Island to find a very nice RV park. The island is in the middle of the lake, which is fed by the Spokane River. The park has a nice beach for swimming and lounging in the sun, along with some walking trails around the natural areas. The upcoming 4^th of July celebration was the next day and we were happy to be in such an amazing place to help celebrate.

On Independence Day we got up early and headed to the city for the American Heroes parade. Downtown main street was decorated with patriotic colors and amazing flowers. The parade was huge and very entertaining. All branches of the military and law enforcement were represented. We truly enjoyed this patriotic display and celebration. After the parade we walked around the city and the waterfront. There were live music bands and food vendors. We ate lunch in the downtown waterfront park, then headed back to the RV park. Later in the evening, we were able to watch the downtown fireworks from the beach at the RV park. It was a great show and very convenient that we didn’t have to go downtown and get into the crowds. Overall, the day’s celebrations were very patriotic and fun.

The next day, we drove back into town and parked at McEuen Park on the waterfront. We took the dogs and hiked a nice trail around Tubbs Hill. We all enjoyed the day in the beautiful town. Our last day we put the kayaks in the lake at the RV park beach. We paddled towards downtown and Tubbs Hill. It was such a beautiful day and a great view of the town from the water. This huge lake is a glacier carved lake and fed by the Spokane River. Later in the evening, we went back into town to attend a live concert in the park. The “Live After 5” event was very nice, we sat in the tree's shade and enjoyed the music.

The area is definitely a tourist mecca. Such a great city, the lake is so beautiful and full of water sports and boating. We truly enjoyed this special western town and all the amenities and activities that it provides. If we had any idea how wonderful it was, we would have scheduled more time there. Oh well, maybe someday we can come back and visit again.

For our next location we will head south to Hells Canyon in Idaho. Looking forward to what we find there.