Thursday, August 17, 2017

2017 Pacific Coast Trip - Theodore Roosevelt National Park, Medora, North Dakota

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Friday, August 4th – Wednesday, August 9th
 
Cottonwood Campground in TRNP, Medora, North Dakota
 
We drove east on I-94, crossed over the North Dakota state line and arrived at the town of Medora. Theodore Roosevelt National Park (TRNP) entrance was right in town. We were not able to get a campsite in the National Park, so we headed to Sully Creek State Park, just a few miles south of town. We were able to stay there one night, so the next morning we could get in line at Cottonwood Campground in TRNP. A great site opened up just as we entered the campground, so we grabbed the site and setup our RV. The sites were very spacious and we were very lucky to get the site. We soon found out that almost all campsites in the area were taken due to an endurance mountain bike race on the next day, Saturday. The race followed the Maah Daah Hey trail, which is a single track trail, dating over 200 years. The Native Americans used this trail for a trade route between other tribes.
We drove back into Medora the next morning and explored the area. What a nice small, western town, host to the National Park. “Medora was founded in 1883 along the transcontinental rail line of the Northern Pacific Railway by French nobleman Marquis de Mores, who named the city after his wife Medora von Hoffman. Marquis de Mores wanted to ship refrigerated meat to Chicago via the railroad. He built a meat packing plant for this purpose and a house named the Chateau de Mores, which is now a museum.” The rest of the story surrounds Theodore Roosevelt, who was instrumental in the development of the National Park. In his mid-20’s, he traveled to the N. Dakota Badlands and Dakota Territory to relax and hunt buffalo. He fell in love with the area and built a cabin. He later became a cattle rancher. Years later he returned to New York and began his political career. After years in the East, he became a conservationist. This and his wealth allowed him to donate the land that would become the National Park.
The landscape of the Park is so different. The Badlands are a result of water and wind that moved and reshaped the rock formations. The layers of so many ancient times display the history of this land. It’s quite amazing to imagine that this land began 65 million years ago, and now has become incredible rock formations mostly consisting of sandstone, mudstone and bentonite clay. There are portions of the Park where petrified wood remain from the Badlands swampy history. The Painted Canyon, at another south entrance, displays the layers all across the valley, quite stunning.
Kurt researched the Maah Daay Hey Trail for mountain biking. He would have loved to compete in the 100 mile endurance race; probably in one of several shorter miles races. We did get our bikes on the trail at the connection trail from Medora. After finding the correct path, we headed off on the amazing desert trail. Kurt rode out and back around 26 miles. I rode about 5 miles, enough for a good workout. He decided on our last day that he would ride 25 miles from a trailhead further north on the trail, where I could drop him off. We later met in Medora at the Picnic Park, where his ride ended. The boys and I hung out at the park and they got to run off leash and have some fun until Kurt arrived.
On one night, we went on ranger-led moon rise hike. We hiked at Wind Canyon as the young ranger told mythical stories about moon. He was so young, he didn’t really understand the moon missions, as he mentioned they were shuttled up to the moon, he kept mentioning the shuttle. Otherwise, he told some interesting stories and is a nice young man. We watched the sunset to the east and then the moon rise over the mountains to the west. It was a very beautiful evening. Truly enjoyed a new perspective on hiking.
The Park had many hiking trails, but we mostly hiked the short loops or trails at turnouts and overlooks. We hiked a couple of longer ones, so we were able to experience almost all landscapes in the Park. The Little Missouri River flows through the park, but at this time there is very little water in the river due to the terrible drought that this region has been in. This is a very different Park than most we have visited. We did see a lot of wildlife; wild horse herds, bison herds, pronghorn and many prairie dog towns. Our last morning in the campground, we woke up to fog and a herd of bison roaming through the campground. We were amazed at the close proximity that they came near us; we backed away as they rushed between our RV and one in behind us. WOW, it was so exciting, the alpha bull suddenly bolted and took the whole herd with him off into the fog. What a sendoff for our time spent there.
We enjoyed our time here; again, we had no idea what to expect and stayed a few more days than we had planned. Next, heading to Bismarck, N. Dakota.

Tuesday, August 15, 2017

2017 Pacific Coast Trip - Billings, Montana

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Friday, July 28th – Thursday, August 3rd  

Billings KOA, Billings, Montana

Leaving Helena, we headed east on scenic mountain roads, so much nicer than taking the boring interstates. We drove around and through the Helena National Forest and the Lewis and Clark National Forest, such beautiful scenery. We didn't know what to expect in Billings so we had only booked 4 days at the Billings KOA Park. It looked like a very nice park and it was right on the Yellowstone River, so we hoped to do some kayaking. Approaching the Billings area we we're driving over a high desert plateau, when we were able to see the Billings Valley. It’s a very large city, quite green and beautiful due to the rivers and creeks. Billings is the largest city in the state of Montana and it was quite obvious that it is a heavily agricultural, oil and gas, industrial town. One of the most significant features in Billings is the sandstone bluffs surround the city known as the Rimrocks. The “Rims” range in height from 200 to 500 feet. It is such different geology than we have seen anywhere in the northwestern states.
We had discovered that there were a couple of major mountain bike trail systems in the Billings area. The next day we headed out to Phipps Park, after visiting a local bicycle shop for some repair parts and trail advice. These trails were on the top of one of those Rimrock plateaus. They were actually a lot of fun once we got up there, but there was at least a mile long, steep climb up a single-track to the top, it was brutal. The views from the top of the Rimrock were spectacular, looking back into the Billings Valley and on the other side to the agricultural and suburban communities. A few of the trails were not rideable due to rock fall and lack of maintenance, so we just stayed on the very top rim trail. 

We were able to arrange a taxi shuttle so we could get our kayaks out on the Yellowstone River. We put in upstream at a public boat ramp and paddled back to the campground. The river was moving very swift and we actually did 20 miles and just about 3 hours. Along the way we were truly surprised to see six bald eagles; one pair in trees, two juveniles in trees and then near the end of the paddle we saw two adult bald eagles just sitting on the shoreline of the river. It was amazing to see that many eagles in one day. We had a really fun time, the weather was perfect and it was a great day. 
There was a scenic drive that headed south of Billings and down into Wyoming called the Beartooth Scenic Byway. We took the dogs and planned to spend most of the day driving the amazing road. As we began heading south on the byway the elevation started changing rapidly. We went through the town of Red Lodge at elevation of 5500’, then after 7 miles of switchbacks up into the mountains, we were able to see the peaks and glaciers of the Beartooth Mountains. At one point we rose up into the tundra area which was quite flat and beautiful. There were several vista points and rest areas which made it even more wonderful for the views. At one point we passed over the 45th parallel which is also the Montana-Wyoming border. At this point we drove out of the Custer National Forest and into the Shoshone National Forest. We drove to the highest elevation which was the West Summit Overlook at 10,947’ above sea level, with amazing 360-degree views of the Beartooth Plateau and other mountain peaks. At that point and after 40 miles, we turned around and headed back to Billings. It was a wonderful day although it was a little bit overcast in some places. We were very glad we had taken the time to experience this Scenic Byway and see the amazing mountain range and the valleys. 

The next day we headed out to a different mountain biking trail called the Zimmerman Trail. This trail was on the south side plateau of the Billings Valley and was actually much better than the previous trails we had ridden. We enjoyed them so much we went there two days. We truly enjoyed the mountain bike trails there, along with all the other activities. 
Billings turned out to be an unexpected pleasure, we ended up staying a full week there and we were busy every day. Also the Billings KOA is an outstanding park, one of the nicest we have ever stayed at in the whole country. It also is the first KOA ever created. We don’t usually stay at KOA’s, due to the high prices, but this one was worth it.

This visit to Billings Montana really sealed the deal on how much we love this state. Everyone there was so nice and friendly, just good people! Again, we were sad to leave such a favorite place, but we were ready to head into North Dakota for adventures there.